Peking has always been an imperial city. From the moment you enter its
confines, the wide and tree-lined boulevards, the towering and
majestic skyscrapers announce the intentions of power and wealth. This
is with certainty the beaming face of China that Westerners are meant
to see. My first explorations took me to quite another quarter, to the
hutongs - the living quarters of the working folk. This is the modest
but infinitely more human side of the medallion. Families sat at
their tables on the sidewalk preparing their meals on a table grill,
while further on down the street men sat on the bare sidewalk slurping
their noodles from tin bowls. Their were no other tourists on these
narrow and dusty lanes and no attempt at antiseptic renovation has
been made here. The reason for this is simple: these ancient
neighborhoods are doomed to soon make room for more shopping malls and
hotels. I saw hutongs which had been closed off from the street with a
wooden wall in preparation for imminent demolition. As a child I was
horrified at the media reports of the rampant and senseless
destruction of the "Cultural Revolution". Today nobody is saying a
word.
This isn't a city which can be absorbed in the two days we'll be
spending here-but it's worth the effort to see as much as possible,
before and after our concert. And, the way I know my colleagues, there
will be as many impressions as there are people made in these few
short hours to come. One memory, however, is one that I'm sure we'll
all take home with us: wherever we go in this city, whether in the
hotel lobby or on the subway walls: the Basel Symphony is omnipresent
in Peking. Pictures of the orchestra, Mario and Huang Mengla greet us
and the city wherever the eye can see. And that's when I'm sure: I'm
not in Basel any more.
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